Sank Engine

Pierre · Sank Engine

I just bought a Endeavour 32.
The engine is a Yanmar 20 HP, model 3GMD.

This sailboat is not in good shape, it is out of the sea but rain goes inside.
There is 2 feet of water inside the boat.
The engine is 3/4 sank, water level just under the alternator.
There is water inside the crankcase but the engine still turning, it is not gripped.

What is the first thing to do to save the engine ?

Sonebuddy told me to change the oil, run the engine for 1 minutes, change the oil again, re-run the engine for 1-2 minutes, re-change the oil and re-run the engine for a couple of minutes. This operation is to remove the water of the engine.

Thank's to help me.

Pierre.

kinander

I good first start is to, as you already been told to run the engine, after a oil change!

Get it up and running as soon as possible! The longer you wait the more the rust builds up inside.
Also spray the engine with WD-40 and get it cleaned.

Keep an eye on the dipstick after every oil change. If the oil is grey or "milky" you still have water inside. Keep changing the oil until the oil looks clean.

Most important, get to it asap.

FastFred

Is it fresh water (as in rain?) or salt water. If it's fresh water....not to worry. I've been there. Perkins 4-108, flooded boat. I drained the water, and whatever mixture of oil and water was left in the sump, did an oil change...cheapest oil available works... and turned the engine over with a hefty socket wrench. Feeling no unusual compression or resistance, (as in cylinders flooded), I kept at it until I was tired. About 5 minutes...then changed the oil. Repeated it for a total of three changes before trying to start it. Had to have the starter motor cleaned as well, but ymmv. Changed the oil after the engine got warm. Haven't had a problem with it since, and it's been almost 10 years!
Get to it, and good luck!
Fast Fred

eemahoney · Stuck Engine

Fred,

I would approach this as follows:
Change the Oil and filter
Pull the Injectors or open the vents whichever you have
Spin it with a wrench, injecting WD40 into the cylinders
Change the oil and filter again, also change the fuel filter and drain anything the lines for the filter to the engine.
Spin the engine with the starter motor, not fuel yet.
Check the oil, if it is milky change again, repeat until clear.
Then reinstall the injectors, close the vents and fire it off.
Let it get warm, should take 10-15 min, make sure the thermostat opens, and change the oil again.

This worked for me many years ago on an old Diesel Towmotor that got submerged. Biggest risk is latent water in the oil or cylinder, in th oil, it will cause the walls to scar and create blow by. In the cylinder, it will ruin the piston.

Good luck,

Ed

Rlightb

Before I even changed the oil I would give it a real thourough bath inside and out with fresh water. Especially the starter, alternator and any other electrical connections or devices you have on or near the engine . Then remove all connectors from harnesess and spray WD40 or a CRC water displacing oil into them. Remove injectors and spin by hand then by starter . Make sure all water is out of the cylinders as water doesn't compress. Spin with the starter, Keep changing the oil if it appears to have any droplets on the dipstick or appears milky. Then install the injectorsand start. and if all seems ok run it for several hours to bake out any moisture while constanty checking the oil for milky color or water droplets. Good luck . Bob E42

boatskipper

Odds are the alternator and starter are baked. Definitely drain all oil and replace all filters refilling with good oil.
pull the injectors prior and spin by hand as recommended. I would load them with marvel mystery oil as you spin them.
Remove the transmission as you will have water in the bell housing as well.
remove the starter..and replace it along with the alternator.
When you do run it...run the boat from a jug (diesel) with the return line going back to the jug (alleviate bad wet fuel factor/ The boat tank fuel will need to be "polished" by a tank cleaning company)

with the injectors out turn it over a bunch (cover with a towel) to blow out any water and or mystery oil.
Close it up(injectors) and attempt to start it (rebleed injectors if need be).
If she starts let her run a bit....shut down and change oil/filter. You may need a good 2-3 changes on the oil and filter to insure no water inside.

....Once you get it above water...thats when the real damage starts. If it has to wait...at least pull the injectors and spin the water out....and fill each cylinder with mystery oil turn and fill to the brim of each injector port...drain the bad oil and fill with mystery oil all the way up through the valve cover filer cap as well, if it needs to sit before completing the process. Then she will be "pickled" at least.

boatskipper

Where are you located?

bobfnbw · Re: Sank Engine

Pierre

Good news,
The engine is running well. I remove the oil-water mixture inside the crankcase, I put new oil inside, I run it for 1 minute, I change the oil and filter, run it for 2 minutes and put new oil, run it for 5 minutes and then put new oil & filter and finaly run it for 1 minute.

Now, the transmission was full of water. So I pump out the water and refill with automatic transmission oil as suggest by Yanmar owner manual. Run it 2 minutes and this is it.

What else to do ?

I planned to remove the engine out to have a closer look on it this winter.

vinsondynes · Transmission oil Yanmar

I have a 3 gm30f with the Kamazaki ( sp ) transmission my manual states that I should use transmission oil but upon reading the plate on the transmission it says 30 wight motor oil so check your plate on the tranny before filling it

Sank Engine

Stuck Engine

Re: Sank Engine

Transmission oil Yanmar